How to Xeriscape Your Yard: Step-by-Step

Xeriscaping in Colorado Springs can reduce outdoor water use by 50-75% compared to traditional turf lawns. While the initial conversion requires planning and labor, a properly executed xeriscape project requires minimal maintenance and holds up for 10+ years with proper design and installation.

Key Takeaways

• Colorado Springs soil is clay-heavy with pH 7.5–8.5; amending with 3–4 inches of compost is critical for success.
• Sod cutter rental costs $150–$200/day and is most efficient for areas over a few hundred square feet.
• CSU Extension soil testing costs under $35 and provides specific amendment recommendations for your property.
• Xeriscape water use reduction reaches 50–75% compared to traditional lawns in Colorado Springs climate.

If your Colorado Springs water bill spikes every summer and your grass still goes brown by July, you are ready for this. Xeriscaping a yard is a real project, not a weekend Pinterest job, but it follows a straightforward sequence. Do these steps in order and the results hold up for years.

What should you plan before xeriscaping your Colorado Springs yard?

The biggest mistake homeowners make is buying plants first and designing around them later. Sketch your yard on graph paper or a simple free tool like Garden Planner. Note:

• Which areas get full sun (6+ hours), part sun, and shade
• Where water naturally drains after rain
• Which zones you actually use (seating, play, path)
• Which existing plants are worth keeping

This plan determines your water zones (a concept called hydrozoning), where you group plants with similar water needs together. See our xeriscape design page for a deeper breakdown of this process.

A clear plan also protects you if you have an HOA. Under Colorado SB23-178, HOAs cannot block xeriscape conversions, but having a documented design helps if you need to demonstrate your intent.

What are the best methods to remove turf in Colorado Springs?

You have three options depending on your timeline, budget, and how much area you are working with.

Sod cutter (fastest method) Rent a walk-behind sod cutter from a Colorado Springs equipment rental yard (typically $150 to $200 per day). It slices under the root zone in strips you can roll and remove. This is the most efficient method for areas larger than a few hundred square feet. Haul the sod to a composting facility or offer it free on Craigslist.

Solarization (slowest, no equipment) Lay clear 4-to-6 mil plastic sheeting over the entire area. Secure the edges. Leave it through a full summer (June through August works well in Colorado Springs). The heat buildup under the plastic kills grass, roots, and weed seeds. This is a good method if you are planning ahead for a fall planting.

Sheet mulching (builds soil simultaneously) Mow the grass short, then layer overlapping cardboard (remove tape and staples) directly over it. Cover with 4 to 6 inches of wood chip mulch. Plant through holes cut in the cardboard. The cardboard suppresses the grass while it decomposes, and the mulch starts building soil organics from day one.

How do you amend Colorado Springs clay soil for xeriscaping?

Colorado Springs soil is typically clay-heavy and alkaline (pH 7.5 to 8.5). Planting straight into unamended clay is one of the main reasons xeriscape projects fail.

Work 3 to 4 inches of compost into the top 8 to 10 inches of soil. A rototiller saves significant time on larger areas. Do not add sand: sand mixed with Colorado clay creates a dense, concrete-like texture that is worse than the original.

If you want precise data on your soil, CSU Extension's Soil Testing Lab accepts samples for under $35 and returns results with specific amendment recommendations for your property. This is worth doing if you are investing in a full yard conversion.

Good soil means faster plant establishment, deeper root development, and less supplemental water required in years two and three.

Why should you install drip irrigation before planting a xeriscape?

Do this before you plant, not after. Running drip lines through an established planting bed without damaging plants is frustrating. Install the infrastructure first.

A basic drip system connects to your existing hose bib or irrigation controller. Individual emitters deliver water directly to each plant's root zone at a slow, controlled rate. This eliminates the evaporation and wind drift losses from spray heads, which can waste 30 to 50 percent of water before it reaches the soil.

Our irrigation conversion service replaces existing spray zones with drip and programs each zone for the water needs of the specific plants you are installing.

Step 5: Plant in Fall or Spring (Not Summer)

Timing matters in Colorado Springs. New plants need time to establish root systems before they face their first summer heat. Two windows work best:

Fall planting (late August through early October) is ideal for most xeriscape perennials and shrubs. Soil temperatures are still warm enough for root growth, but air temperatures are dropping, reducing transplant stress. Plants have six to eight months to root before their first full summer.

Spring planting (late April through early June) works well for warm-season grasses like buffalograss and blue grama. Wait until soil temperature at 4-inch depth reaches a steady 60°F, which typically happens around Mother's Day on the Colorado Springs Front Range.

Avoid planting in July or August. Even drought-tolerant plants need establishment watering, and doing that during peak heat requires significantly more water and effort.

Step 6: Choose the Right Plants for Each Zone

Group plants by water need. Your dry zones (south-facing slopes, areas with reflected heat from concrete) get your most drought-tolerant species: Apache plume, rabbitbrush, penstemon, Russian sage.

Slightly moister zones near downspouts or in lower areas can support plants like potentilla or yarrow that want a bit more moisture.

Our native plants and drought-tolerant plants pages list species organized by water need and sun exposure. The City of Colorado Springs also publishes an approved xeric plant guide for properties within city limits.

For full guidance on plant selection, see our companion post: What Are Xeriscape Plants?

Step 7: Mulch to 3-to-4 Inches

This step is not optional. Bare soil in a Colorado summer loses moisture rapidly through evaporation. A proper mulch layer keeps soil cooler, slows water loss, and suppresses weed seed germination.

You have two main choices:

Organic mulch (wood chips, bark) decomposes over time, feeding the soil and improving its structure. Needs to be refreshed every 2 to 3 years. Works well in planting beds with perennials.

Rock and gravel mulch does not decompose, so it requires no refreshing. It pairs well with rock garden areas and xeriscape designs that use ornamental gravel as a design feature. See our rock gravel landscaping page for material options.

Apply either material to a consistent 3-to-4-inch depth. Shallower than 3 inches and you lose most of the evaporation benefit.

Step 8: Establish Watering and Then Back Off

New plants need regular watering for their first season, even drought-tolerant species. Water deeply but infrequently, 2 to 3 times per week in the first 6 weeks, then once a week through the first full growing season. The goal is to encourage roots to go deep rather than staying near the surface.

By year two, most established xeriscape plantings in Colorado Springs need little to no supplemental irrigation except during extended dry spells.

When to Call a Professional

The DIY path works well for small areas or homeowners who enjoy the work. For full yard conversions, the time investment in design, soil prep, irrigation installation, and planting adds up fast.

Our team handles the complete sequence from soil testing through final mulch layer, and we know which plants perform well in specific Colorado Springs neighborhoods, from Monument and Black Forest to Fountain and Old Colorado City.

Call (719) 631-2371 or get a free estimate and we will walk your property and put together a realistic plan.